For those still travelling – Contributing today are Brigitta , Carmen with a cameo from Joss King ……. These days are the last of Castilla y Leon on the 26th & 27th , Galicia beckons on the 28th but there’s still two Castilian towns before that …….

The Road from Foncebadón past Cruz de Ferro has been tiring – the content of the day I suppose – more than the distance at 28k a day we accept as normal .

We see Ponferrada –

……. surprisingly interesting with its Templar Castle …… You can see our Camino marker in front ……

And a huge Plaza Mayor – deserted as the Heat reaches its peak as we arrive late afternoon .

Albergue Aléa will be my choice in April – still within budget at €10 , €8 for dinner 🥘 and €3 for Breaky!!

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Heading for Villafranca Del Bierzo next morning …… and a happy coffee break –

Ha – 😆. Just noticed – Keeping Standards up on the Way ! …. you’re doing the ‘Pinky out’ – holding your little finger that way …… you’re so POSH

Past colourful bars

And churches recently restored in such a strong act of faith by the local community-

The Girls meet a fellow Pelegrínos great character – from Valencia – a place always close to Brigittas’ heart.

– And arrive in Villafranca Del Bierzo and we have been so lucky. The Albergue Leo is beautiful.

It’s a 400 year old house used as a private Albergue– lovingly restored by Leo and his family to 5 Star standards – far above many of those we have stayed in.

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It’s the 28th – Thursday – the girls are heading to O’ Cebreiro and start to notice a change – 2 things ……

Autumn is starting to appear in the Bierzo Vineyards ……. very atmospheric photos Brigitta Maria ! ……… and such a change from when we left St Jean a month ago .

MorMor makes the rough track look easy

– Rumanian / Swedish Power Ranger 👊🏻 !! …….. but not surprising as she was once in the National Basketball 🏀 team for Rumania!

And we run into Johnny Boy – soon to be Joss – on the trail . Looking fit and well.

We are getting up to 1300 – 1400 metres again and the heat is intense ….

Too hot for dogs even ….

And DEFINITELY too hot at 1300 metres for these exhausted Pelegrínos – it’s a tough hike in these temperatures 😐

And finally reach ……. the ultimate region of this odyssey….. Galicia ! 👏🏽✌🏼🎉🎊🎉

The distance to Santiago becomes suddenly very real , what looked impossible – now achievable . 160k left !

And without naming the Alberque- after 26 nights of great food – we have the worst dinner . Oh well- it’s been a good run so far 🏃

Bring on tomorrow and who knows maybe a shorter 22 k walk to Triacastela ?

Xxxxxxx

This place might be the best example of “function over form“ I have come across.

Cruz de Ferro – can’t be accused of misrepresenting its self – as it is exactly that… Simply an iron Cross on the top of a tall thick wooden pole.

However it’s emotional meaning and the spiritual investment in this place of hundreds of thousands of Pelegrínos make this place more important than many of the more elaborate places of worship around the world.

Maybe it is it’s simple lack of contrivance.

This is Brigitta‘s photograph of it on the morning they approached. You’ll not see too many of Brigs in this post – either she’s taking the photos or it’s just too important a day for “selfies” ( but Tereza – she’s fine! )

It’s early and misty as it’s only 2 km from last night‘s Alberque.

It’s located here – you can see how far they’ve come on the journey.!

The stones – possibly running into millions – all around its base – at first look as if they are a natural occurrence.

Not so.

They are individually carried and placed with messages on for reasons as varied as there are stones.

Thanks , Pleas , Prayers , Solutions , Answers , Troubles left, worries and souls unburdened.

The weight of this place is overwhelming for many and it was for Brigitta & MorMor.

I will be there in body in the spring of ‘18 – I was there in spirit that day with them for their own astonishingly courageous Cruz de Ferro reasons 💞

As well – they kindly took a stone that I had written to place there . Mine was of friendship – the little stone here between them – nothing too deep from me ( This time ) . Theirs too personal for here.

I very much regret not being there with them on this day .

MorMor sent a postcard to the Heavens !

Fantastic views from the top taken by Brigs – – it’s always too easy to read too much into these things – but as the mist lifts , sun rises , skies turn blue there is no more eloquent way to express a new Start, a rejuvenation , an entitlement to basic happiness. You two deserve it .

The day and the mood lifts . The Cruz works its magic! Quaint buildings appear alongside the track ….

And the “New Start” is celebrated with early lunch 🥗 – beer 🍺 and a cheeky glass of wine 🍷

“After Cruz de ferro we’re Celebrating the beginning of a new beautiful life “

I’m often astonished at the sheer resilience of women – here , at home , friends . This sunny photo above is proof !

As is this ! 😆😘

Just one of the series of emotional Camino Chapters – but for many the most important- ………. is over .

With a final photo of this stage .

The Girls followed the example of this little Spanish cuteness. Siesta !!!

Best of luck & 👊🏻 …….. 🤣

Onwards and Upwards !! 👍☀️☀️👍

Xxxxxxxxxx

Well I’m in England – but via Facebook, WhatsApp, Instagram and whatever means are available I get messages daily and still travel alongside.

My welcome home 🏠 was extraordinary, a tidal wave of children , Ciara , dogs , hugs , kisses , presents 🎁, adventure stories , Camino jokes , night out with friends , more stories and “you’ll never guessed what happened then ………..” etc along the lines of ………

Blade Runner – ……….. Inspired 😮

It really helps with the PCSD 😳 – it doesn’t take a genius to discover the antidote – keep walking ! …… And while you do it – go through the things you saw and the clarity of thought the 750, 000 steps gave.

My dogs are wondering what’s hit them , they get 8k before breakfast and 6k later on .

And again and again

The Internatiōnalè are asking – how are Brigitta and Carmen ?

Its tough to follow fully as they’ve put in some long days , updates not easy to acquire – but ….. the days in question are :-

Saturday 23rd

Sunday 24th

Monday 25th

Tuesday 26th

Weds 27th

I’ll jump to Monday 25th -I’ve got most material for that day – in this blog post – I’ll try to make it fractionally logical .

This is 25th Sept and on their way into the Mountains – looking good Girls !

Heading towards the end of a long stage and a climb up to 1500 metres to ‘base camp’ in Foncebadón .

The Climb , the views look amazing . The temperature lower , changing from the Meseta which officially ends at Astorga.

Carmen doing what she does best ………. care for everything / everyone / Cows 🐄 / the planet 🌍 …….. 😘

And Finally into Foncebadón – and after some discussion on where to stay between the 3 of us as I’m the only one with the ‘Wise Pilgrim’ app . They book into ….

Albergue Mont Irago – this looks more like a ski lodge from 40 years ago ! Same Vibe.

There’s even a fire! – You can sense the change in environment. Here is the happiest woman alive – when she has organised the wash line 🤣

The good natured , hippy , environment caring , mountain lodge vibe made this a real favourite place .

Great table , good company , chaotic room

And I hope the Veggy Paella 🥘 tasted as good as it looks ladies !

With a final word from this calm and welcoming place ……

That’s Monday 25th done and this post done for tonight . Big day tomorrow as a super long walk and THE exceptionally emotional day of Camino beckons ………. when most days contain some degree of heightened emotion on this adventure – you may understand later why Cruz de Ferro stands out ……….

Xxxxxxxxx

….. ah well – it’s early evening – I’ve got 5 hours to go – it’s been a blast – so how to end it ? .

– this blog ? as it’s being followed by friends and family of several Caminista will carry through to see Santiago . Which sadly for me will have to wait until spring.

They’ll send me pics and facts – I’ll make the rest up – and post it – should be cool 😎

Pre match G&T as I wait – raises my game – the last quiet part of the evening.

We head for the Barrios – Humedo & Romantica either side of Calle Ancha – we heard it was all going on there . That street is amazing – almost a cliché for Spanish Friday night buzz – the excitement is palpable. Let’s go ….

Plaza Mayór – and ….. Welcome to the pleasure-dome 💃🏼

An attempt at a conversation with Rikke is unashamedly bombed by my favourite journalist- Miss H. McClure 🙃

A generous welcome from Lithuanias own Lorenzo – ( he’s happy for us to approximate his name which is , in reality , a top scrabble score )

He’s pleased with my appearance on his best mans speech video at last Saturdays wedding – and expresses it in a traditional way . This never happens to me ……

Sort of sets the tone early for the evening though ….. 😳

You’ve seen all these fabulous characters over the past 20 days and this is a great place to say farewell and “Buen Camino” – Love them all .

I expect to see them running their own countries at least in the next 20 years –

Find a way for peaceful prosperity ? ✅ Coexistence, across cultures ? ✅ -……….they’ve had great training .

It’s a feature of this ‘way’ that you find yourself part of a wave – Rolando – top man – came to find us with Reiner – so pleased – didn’t expect to see him – we just roar with laughter at each other and communicate effectively with 50 common words , hugs and punches – it’s remarkably effective .

We have a venue in mind which has been recommended to our Brigitta- and we leave slowly due to a million goodbyes to Europe and Scandinavia and head of to the renowned ‘El Patio’ – to say goodbye to South America. – the restaurant sounds a tad ( a bit ) ‘ 70’s but what a place – ……

Columbian Dentist Miriam , and Gloria plus friend . Join Chilean Rolando , Reiner and the 3 Musketeers ( well 9 Musketeers if you’re Carmen ) ” One for 3 and 3 for all” as a toast is as well meaning as it is confused 😆🤣😆🤣💋❤️ thx Carmen.

In a city backstreet , vine covered , 200 sitting , 300 standing – chaos – Peak Time – no reservation , El Patio manage to find room , chat , serve , pour – a great example of Can Do Hospitality .

I love these photos – we’re all starved and sociable – no one posing – fast talking , Reiner and Brigs behind the camera – the occasion is just ……….. memorable ❤️

As memorable as their lack of portion control ! This is one persons dish – huge Pasta , king prawn , Chorizo and crayfish with wafer thin , crisp , home cooked potatoes – it works though

Clocks ticking – have that Cinderella feeling as realise my Coach leaves in an hour – on the stroke of Midnight – too much ! 🤣 and hard to leave.

More goodbyes and race across town , to grab backpack – final team selfie at Hostal fails in a way that makes this one of my favourites as Carmen loses interest and wanders off ( she’s there in the distance 😆)

Big emotional goodbyes – gifts , hugs , lifelong loyalty sweared , speed me on my way – it’s just intense . 😢

And unreal …. as 30 mins later I’m in the traditional backpackers ‘posture of patience ‘ at the bus station as the Madrid bus pulls in .

Life distilled to ticket , picnic , pack , boots …….. 😢

Xxxxxxx to you all .

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….. Through a melánge of Wine , Beautiful people , 42 hours without sleep and fond farewells the blog became collateral damage .

This will be part 1 as the pics that ended up on SO many phones I’ve not got yet.

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She told us she was going ahead – Now I find out where the lovely Heather ended up on her adventures yesterday. Another stunning narrative from her but this time with Pulitzer standard colour & B&W photos.

The town : Reliegos. ( yes really )

The Bar. : Elvis ( also yes really)

I guess y’all are getting another “dear diary” post already because yesterday is a story all its own and one I needed to put into words before I forgot any of the small details. It’s a real long one, so just look at the pictures if you prefer. 🤓

After one of my more diversely emotional days thus far, a desire for a stint of solitude with my own thoughts coupled with a strength I haven’t quite felt until now led to a roughly 50 kilometer (30 mile) day that began with the sound of rocky footsteps just before sunrise and ended with even swifter steps as the pink sunset turned black a bit sooner than I’d expected, without civilization for miles. Around midday yesterday, I began feeling a strong desire for a bigger challenge, one farther outside of my comfort zone; I realized that I hadn’t yet felt uncomfortable enough or challenged in a way that feels necessary to my personal growth experience. With that, I departed from the people who have become a lovely and warm camino family for a couple of solo days on the road. I set out for a village another 20 or so kilometers away as there were beds still available and an eclectic sounding bar that I had read about earlier in the day.

When I finally arrived just after 9pm, with very little energy and an 11pm curfew looming, it took everything in me to trek up to the bar. I was eager for a new experience on my own, though, so I set out. The entire dormitory room of eight beds was empty, something absolutely unheard of thus far, so the albergue owner gave me a key to the front door, seemingly unconcerned with the curfew restriction–also quite unheard of.

I peered into the bar, nicknamed “Bar Elvis”, before committing to the idea, as it appeared to be completely empty. It turns out, though, that was the best part about it. I walked in to see the bar owner, Eusignio, behind the bar smoking a cigarette, sipping brandy, singing, dancing and smiling all at once. I quickly realized I was in for some sort of a treat. His energy was through the roof, his joy was infectious and he spoke Spanish a mile a minute–seemingly unconcerned with what amount I was comprehending (for the record, thanks to the help of body language and hand gestures, I’d say 60% is a good but generous estimate).

From the minute I walked in, he was welcoming, generous, hilarious and full of joy that I have to assume he explodes with the same way each day. He poured us both a glass of brandy from his top shelf, warming the glasses to increase the aroma as he insisted on me smelling it before sipping it. It tasted/felt precisely how I imagine the fire of Khaleesi’s dragons (also RIP ice dragon) would feel going down my throat and engulfing my esophagus. Out of shelves and cabinets all across the bar, he began placing plates of chips, olives, cheese and meat in front of me, generously offering me a little of everything.

I’ve always been extremely cautious and particular with food while traveling, so when he began scraping unidentifiable fish from a disposable plastic package (that I was initially certain was for the four cats peering in from each window and door), I immediately began thinking of how I could communicate a fish allergy in broken Spanish. But something in me just couldn’t deny the hospitality and generosity of this man who seemed to have so little but without question was giving so much (I later found out he lives behind the bar, in an area connected by a sort of tunnel).

We shared our 11pm dinner together as he took breaks to turn on the ancient laser light machine that was tucked behind the even more ancient CD player that blasted an eclectic mix of music to which he knew every word to every song in every language, even though I know his actual comprehension of English is about +/-10 words. And, from what I could gather, half of those words are “The Way”, “Martin Sheen” and “Apocalypse Now” and are a result of his bar’s cameo in the camino film, “The Way”, which you can tell from the moment you walk in the door is the pride of his life. Playing on loop in the corner, every minute of every day, he fast forwards with precise accuracy to view his half second of stardom whenever the opportunity to do so arises, and he lights up the most when recounting every detail of the experience. It has been seven years since the film was released, even more since it was shot, but I can’t imagine his joy being any brighter in the midst of those moments than it was yesterday and surely will continue to be indefinitely.

After too much wine and surely too much brandy, I said goodnight and asked if the bar would be open for breakfast so I could come and hang a bit before getting on the road again. He told me he wouldn’t be opening until 10, so I would probably miss him so I said goodbye and thanked him for his kindness.

I decided to take my time getting on the road this morning, starting my way out of town with one more trek in front of the bar so I could get a daytime photo of the exterior. Much to my delight, the front door was wide open. I ran in to a similar delight behind the bar. He told me he decided to start the day a little earlier today and I was so happy that he did.

He made me a coffee and insisted I grab fruit and pasties for the road. I sat with him for awhile as he took his morning pills, cleaned the bar from the night before and sang, danced, laughed, drank and smoked exactly as he had nine hours prior. We took a few photos and he sent me on my way with a hug, a kiss on both cheeks, spoiled grapes, a delicious (and fresh!) pear and a cafe con leche prepared with questionably room temperature milk that I enjoyed all the same.

I walked out of the village of Reliegos with the truest smile on my face and the most happiness in my heart. Minutes later and out of nowhere, I began crying for the first time since beginning my camino. There was no sadness behind any one tear, though; only a deep and honest gratefulness for the life I have been given and the people who walk in and out of it every day. x

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That’s Heathers latest -Wow – Just Wow 🙏🏽

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Friday – 22nd – i approach 500k – this was to be last full day on the Camino for me this year – and as agreed unspoken as it’s a real wrench to even think about leaving these amazing , positive , sharing , strong , vulnerable , focused , funny , skilled , learning , teaching , emotionally intelligent people 💞. Bruised by – and before – the Camino.

We are travelling from ……

<
. a short day for hardened hikers …..

What better than early trivia to distract ? As we pass through Villarente I came across the 1985 car of my youth – Ford Escort XR3i – perfect condition as no salt on roads out here – left a note !!

<
opped for PG fuel shortly after – 9.45am ish – the lightest Tortilla , Chorizo Picante & Estrella Galicia + Coffee . 💪😘

We approach the outskirts of León and some very kind guides posted for Pelegrínos state their are 46 palaces and castles in León – and they come thick and fast – would love to spend more time here.

We are keeping an eye out for the emblem / coat of arms of the double headed eagle…everyone needs a hobby 😆

And again ……..

And again – this town is lush ……..

Attracted by the same model I drive at home – we wonder what’s through the door .

It’s an Albergue ! – The Pelegrínos experience and care for weary travellers appears to be improving as we travel on 😜 ……..

A truly religious experience……….

There’s a place to store your boots – as usual …….

And the garden that has been a feature of many previous stops has religious connections at this Hostal with its cloisters.

Garden / Gardener

Carmen looking at home – she deserves it

Escaping into León – the town is warming up into an incredibly vibrant Friday night of crowds , cafe culture , late restaurants …….. but I’m on the clock – I leave just after Midnight on the bus to Madrid – Barajas Aeropuerte

Let’s end Part 1 here – as Friday 22nd Part 2 deserves its own focus – thanks mainly to Spains Finest roving editorial crew – Heather & Ken with Brigs xxx

It’s another feature I have overlooked as it’s become commonplace. Considerable parts of the small villages we pass through are either built or coated in this stuff ….. yep Mud , Straw , ( add ingredient of choice ) – Adobe bricks . If your looking for authentic – look no further 👀

Spanish design often delights – this one turns out to be a church ( not a fire station) as we leave Bercianos… with radical bell tower at dawn .

The ‘Mahoosive ‘ Storks nest on the random tower next to it is still – unexplained 👓

2nd Breakfast stop in a 2 building hamlet just before El Burgo Ranero . Clearly they take pride in their 11.00am Pacheran 🥃 and 3kg per slice Tortilla. Feeds 4 Pelegrínos – well it did today 👍

I’ve crossed paths 5 or 6 times with these next 2 wonderful guys . You’ll see them on pics of common mealtimes in previous texts representing Chile 🇨🇱 and Colombia 🇨🇴 with their lovely travelling companions .

Here is the fabulous Rolando Earnst – he’s not this huge it’s camera angle .

Rolando has a German name clearly. But comes from the line of the 1852 German Lutheran emigre settlement of Chile . Look up Puerto Montt , Chile he’s 40k outside and the place looks like Germany / Austria in style and buildings – astonishing cultural transference.

They may not see me tomorrow- as I’ve got a surprise booked for what’s left of our original walking group for my last night ( secret ! ) . So Rolando and his friends brought good wine into the kitchen of our €5 Albergue and we had such a great home cooked dinner .

Thankyou Chefs ! – Brigs and Carmen …… I washed up 😇)

Thankyou Rolando and sommelier Reinhardt Rimmerman (Lübeck , Germany ) next to me who chose the wine .

We tried to sum up our cumulative Camino thoughts which as we speak 4 different languages was ‘fun’ – but based on all our experiences………

Spanish is the glue – so I tried this

Which roughly translates as : –

All agreed – 👋👋👋

Time for bed ! …… last day and 500k beckons xxx

And so it is with the Meseta . Can’t believe it but it’s growing on me . Covered 25k today – didn’t notice it passing . 3 splinter groups joined up and songs started – thought we were the only musical ones !

Ken from the Sydney School of Performing Arts 🎭 – what a voice ! His “Stand by Me” 🎶 as we marched was another Camino moment. ( A Good One Ken !)

A Day that starts like this can’t be bad …

Through villages like San Nicholas Del Real Camino . With welcoming cafes.. open early to supply the fuel Spain runs on . Strong and Black ☕️ – with fresh Tortilla. It’s a real habit now !

And Cross into Castilla y Leon . The way runs alongside the Autovia for a mile .I got a few looks as the signs to Leon started to appear as it’s my jumping off point . We’ve all agreed to block it from our minds xx

Into Sahagun – no longer cold now ! . Great City Gates – proud Knights Templar tradition.

Could not believe my luck when the coffee stop was a self styled “Irish Tavern” . Guinness and Tapas / Pinchon – Ecstatic 😘

( Yes – that’s the Look 👀)

Great to see Mira again . Has a great laugh with her Spanish/ Italian crew this week . Wonderful girl – She is a one women rescue squad

…… Why ? …

20 Mins later here she is operating – full kit , sterile needles , anaesthetic, threading blisters and repairing feet for our Danish friend Rekke outside the Bar . Mira is a fellow traveller , one of us , everyone helps.

Not really mentioned this before – as it’s such a common daily occurrence. EVERYONE – asks , checks , discusses wrecked feet . Gory stories are relished . Many have gone home because it’s got so bad . We have a resourceful band and avoided this – but it’s all part of the experience.

One Man Cliché Time . Heather rolls up ( author of the excellent FB post yesterday) . Has seen my denial of Irish Heritage in yesterday’s blog . NOW CATCHES ME DRINKING GUINESS IN AN IRISH TAVERN.!! Thinks me a double liar – but shares the moment and the pint. Top Girl !

Serious “Hasta La Vista” moment ensues as I’m dragged back to the next 15 km stretch . ” I’ll be back “🤣😆😘🤣😘

Only in Rural Spain can this happen in a large town – bloody hysterical !

Thought of staying here but after 18 days Hiking – I’m sore enough 😂😇

Made it in record time to Bercianos Del Real Camino . Found unknown Albergue- “Bercianos 1900” only open 2 weeks – a real oasis.

Previously never arrived mid afternoon at the nights rest stop – so made the most of it .

Top – the Gorgeous Miss H . McClure.

Middle – L to R – Moi , Brigs, Warren NZ, Anna -Germany, Rekke – Denmark , Mira ( being bought a Cannã / beer after her life saving ops earlier)

Bottom – Massage and Animated End of a Days teamwork.

And finally Heinz from East Germany required help with some South Korean translation. Happy to help Heinz😆.

Night All xxxxx

With the medieval GPS a little hazy I either passed the half way mark this morning or definitely by the time I reached tonight’s stop.

This stage is reputedly one of the toughest – As there is largely nothing to distract from each step – and a 30k hike to Moratinos (Pop’ 12 + Livestock ) forces you to consider why you’re here ( maybe a tad introspective for me ) or look on each of the 45,000 steps a day like this requires as an opportunity to appreciate what’s happening around you . ( more me !👍)

Here’s what a fellow traveller Heather McClure from Santa Monica US posted tonight – you’ve seen her pic on this blog before. Hope you can read it – it’s fab .

A good start – breakfast in Carrion de Los Condes ( Fuel up or your legs are useless within 2 hours !! )

Start in the Dark .

Some Panoramas from Heather . Who calls me “Irish Ian” and greets me with “Top of the …….. ” fill in time of day / occasion/ Drink here . No idea why – and am not going to dissuade her now 🤣

Of the 3 measures for the Camino Frances I’m going with 820k – it covers me for sightseeing and meandering .

So today is a big day !!! 🎶🍷🇪🇸👣 – half way – woo hoo 🍻✌🏼

Past Vast Monasteries

And out again into the Meseta – and then ………….. Nada , Nowt , Nothing for 7 hours .

Of course ….. relieved by the convo’ ,the common humour and in jokes of the – by now – symbiotic travelling band .

A photo you take when bored …..

A welcome late lunch and Beer …

Joined by Rikke from Denmark 🇩🇰 on the way to meet boyfriend in Santiago and then off to surf in Finisterre together .

3 more hours to …. days end

In Montanilla – this is our Hostal – one up from an Alberque- € 14 Euros ( flash eh ?) a comfortable haven for hot shower and chill should give us a shorter day tomorrow.

Surrounded by old Bodegas for wine storage. Hobbit Houses !

And ending with THE most bizarre “Camino Moment” . 3 Japanese pilgrims gave an impassioned impromptu performance in the Hostal common room.

Get this – somehow they have a BIWA with them – a Japanese musical instrument. – heavy to carry I suppose .

Each song introduced with care by this man .

Happy to be here . Totally bizarre and wonderful – i have video . They love the fact my Sister Kate is in Tokyo and will also see this !

Night all

We leave our Alberque with its quirky sculpture-

And within the first cold hour encountered a rainbow ……

A stunning sun rise over the Canal Palencia

Which appears to have little interest in pleasure craft as this is its end – a rare sight in such a dry land .

Nice Nose decoration / only been awake 30 mins look 👀

We move on past hundreds of these Camino Shell markers on which a roadside philosopher has added his own graffiti ……

Past the best named village –

To village after village with random sculptures placed unexpectedly in the streets , ……

The harsh realities of Camino life are shown here as last nights washing is air dried ” on the run ” …..

Socks and shirt on Backpack , under armour on your arms !! All V effective .

The endless wheat fields in background .

And 25k later into ………

And get a great last minute multi room on Booking. Com as all Alberques full!

The location of the G & T below is seen from our window – Bar Carmen no less !!

Major Gin-age … 😆

Dinner at Los Cortes as good and Simone as ever . Tonight the wine even has a label – bonus !

Xxxxx

Today !! – This supposedly bleak part of the Camino is something that’s imposing its grandeur on us all . This northern part of the Meseta will last until Astorga – I feel a test coming on ….. 🙏🏽

Starts with the 15th Century ‘ ruins of St Anton – main road though the middle – why not – it’s Spain ! 😆

Where hidden in the ruins is an unknown pilgrimage gem . You can stay here if you know where it is !

Run by Hospitaleria on 2 week rotation. Here’s Raoul – happy with his lot and loving his role here .

Nicked his hammock for this one …

And on the road again for Casto Jerez . A surprising mix of the ruined and the cosmopolitan.

Vote taken on opening our own Albergue!

1.00pm – Backpacks opened – contribute what you carried , stick it in the middle and splendid al Fresco lunch under rare shade with the road travelled behind . Fresh at 7.00am from the “Pano”

Tortilla Sandwiches , Tomatoes, Ends of 3 Days Chorizo ……. all good

See that road – we’re now heading down it.

Across the Bridge made famous in Martin Sheens “The Way” where he loses his backpack …..

And into Palencia ……

Always liked a good map ……. this is a whopper

And a welcome beer break from the heat with my favourite Saint … Miguel . Enhanced by a chance meeting with outrageous Hayley Elizabeth Hoole – full name means i’m fairly sure she’ll kill me 😆🤣😆😝 now ;should we ever cross paths – which is never certain on the way .

Johnny Boy – pictured with us is now called Joss (long story / online Deed poll yesterday ) – Camino normality is unique 😎

And 11k of foot dragging March later we come to our destination. Boadillas Del Camino is welcome , shut on Sundays but no one cares – the evening rituals and rest are just SO welcome .

Good food , fab hearty chicken and / or black lentil soups ( after another 32 k everyone has both 😘 ) -and simple choices Fish , Beef , Chicken – all taste divine when you’ve earnt it

Earthenware beakers of very acceptable wine 🍷 and the evening takes a familiar course 😳 – great laugh – joined by Irish Rita and her walking group –

An chilly hour after dinner in the Garden of the Alberque – all wrapped up but good .

… and bed by 9.45 . No one stays up past this on these Meseta stages , would be too tough on next days testing stage.

Blogging this from Cosy bunk – curtained by my drying gear and loudly snoring Italian guy ….. time for sleep …. and ear plugs – I brought plenty !!!

Night All xxxxx