Where the Way crosses the Bay of Biscay

I am now entering unknown territory. There are perils in involving a wider audience than this lil’ ole journal was originally intended.

It’s grown from the original intention in 2017 which was to keep my Children updated when I first did a 34 day Camino. They still read it I’m keen to point out – as do many people I met along the way.

Feedback: Support , reminiscences , anecdotes, jokes , greetings , stories, heartfelt respect for people and traditions of the way are welcome.

I write in real time, a partially punctuated sort of “Peregrino stream of consciousness”. I write never too far in advance – I’m either actively planning , actively traveling, actively inhaling the history, exuberance, food, Wine, beliefs and traditions of Camino life. You know – the important stuff.

Or not.

Either on or off ; intense experiences , two or 3 week bursts and then ……. Radio silence.

That’s why writing months in advance of our June departure is a break with tradition probably overdue for me. The multi disciplinary, imaginative volunteers involved in structuring this adventure have already been hard at it for many months, so it’s about time.

SO – What’s this about ?

I’ve been fortunate enough to become involved in a part pilgrimage, part historical re-enactment, PART NAUTICAL 🫢, adventure.

Yes ! IT IS as it sounds – the major part of this Camino will be AT SEA. On board this 1919 150 ft brig – The Morgenster .

A thrilling mix of Religious, Spiritual, & Physical.

It involves a dozen full time crew , 36 seaborne pilgrims/adventurers, a documentary maker and the cooperation of several religious and deputiación representatives in both UK & Spain.

More of which later .

Whether traveling or advising; Part of this amazing group is the second name I ever heard of in Camino circles alongside that of the inspirational John Brierley.

I refer to John Rafferty – aka Johnnie Walker – https://johnniewalkersantiago.blogspot.com

Johnnies story is worth a moment of your time –

https://johnniewalker-santiago.blogspot.com/2018/12/living-in-santiago-was-not-my-plan.html

In this introduction I’ll keep the alumni list short and add into the mix just one more fellow traveler – the Medieval historian Luke Daly. Luke is in fact on board with me and brings Gen Z tech familiarity along with his Scholarly enthusiasm to the crew. Luke can be found at :- @thedalymedievalpodcast

I can’t think of a better way to properly introduce them than by way of this comradely conversation. Enjoy and I’ll catch up with you next post.

Follow this link :-

https://youtu.be/tDWluH7gpWw?si=0t-6o9gnRUcjP7Gi

https://youtu.be/tDWluH7gpWw?si=0t-6o9gnRUcjP7Gi

#TSCI24

CaminoRamblings.com

Even though we are here for a full day until our journey home starts. We need to be out of the apartment by 12.00pm which is reasonable.

We make the magic happen with our backpacks, daily carried gear and the gear which we had transferred . Combined , nothing discarded into on board friendly flight cases ….. the perception by airport personnel is that backpacks like this with straps , clips pouches ,44 litre volume are too big for on board luggage. ( Oddly shaped they don’t readily fit the max sizer frame either).

Neatly squish it into a 400gram airline approved flight case – never been challenged.

We head out to spend the afternoon in the city – a coffee stop on the main plaza before our Cathedral visit first .

Through the arches and past well tended municipal art.

Taking familiar routes

Like minded souls that we are ….. we choose a corner of the best positioned restaurant shaded tables for coffee with a good view. Only to hear a shout from the next table.

It’s Fiona and MMM who have all their luggage with them. Sarah’s there to wave them off too.

Resourcefully they have managed to order a chilled bottle of Rosé ! – duly shared 🙏

After hugs and a fond farewell – their journey home will take several days via Madrid then layovers in places like Muscat or Dubai . Thom and Luke go shopping and I take in the view . I don’t fancy giving up the table it’s too good.

Just as well … this table becomes a focal point ….. pilgrim reception desk as Sarah comes back briefly after some retail therapy – she’s heading on to Santiago tomorrow.

Then Jenny and Lemaryn WhatsApp- where are we ? – they’ve caught up.

Additional Rosé required

And one of my favourite photos of the tour

We all give in after taking many other random peoples photo for them and have our photos taken with the most popular photo opp in town.

It’s now 3.45pm and we leave at 6.00 so we head for lunch at the Hostel Rugby themed bar that the girls are staying in.

Everything is based around the RFU World Cup – shame I didn’t find it earlier ( maybe for the best 😆💥) .

Rugby burgers , Team based snacks and Tapas ….. produce some of the finest , freshly baked , artisan ( and largest 😆 ) food so far.

And a last group shot of the expedition.

And a great flurry of final , noisy chat – we’re off in a minute … this is it.

More hugs , a few tears – hope to see them again – Thom indeed may do as he’s back in a week – and we head off to the Bus Station. Conveniently we’d left our bags in lockers there this morning .

All too soon we’re on the 6.00 ALSA to Bilbao

On the coach – And about to leave we hear a loud and rapid exchange in fluent Spanish outside . I hear the driver reluctantly agree to something and then – amazing ……. Hurricane Sarah dashes down the aisle – showers us all with thoughtful goodbye gifts – turns round and rushes off !!

Driver and guard only gave her 30 seconds as we were Family she’d said.

Well – we are really – her Camino Family , often the best type.

I’m doubly lucky that my own family is with me too. They are both !!

We’re in Bilbao 2 hours later –

Jump a cab to the airport – The driver was a huge character ex bookseller ex DJ he played a carefully curated English-based rock mix of Supertramp, Genesis, stones, Sabbath, while all the time, trying to engage me in football talk.

Much to the amusement of my boys in the backseat as he’s opening gambit was quite bizarre – “Tony Cascarino eh?”

I know more about Moorish Filigree work than football and I can hear giggles in the back at my attempts to swerve the conversation 😏.

Airport 90 mins before take off , no bags , no check in and we leave for Manchester and Ciara waiting for us at the gate.

It’s been a blast.

It’s been a privilege to meet these people, in many ways I’m sad not to go on to Santiago with them. Thom however will do as he’s refueling back home – and Birthday 🎂! – and back on the trail on Oct 5th starting where we left of in Burgos.

The bonds and friendships will always be there.

Until next time

Xxxxx

The first daylight start to the day for 2 weeks. Thom the planner is keen to visit the enormous Human Evolution Exposition , Cathedral, Military museum and several other sites. I just love his intense hyper- focus when he’s engaged.

And out to the first on Thoms list only 10 mins slow walk in this accessible city.

It’s VAST ! …. and don’t think I’m cynical in the least but it’s glittering, its conceptual, it’s the size of Microsoft HQ , it can donate a sports pitch area to a metal goat.

I Spy EU Cash .. 💶🇪🇺💶🇪🇺💶🇪🇺💶🇪🇺💶👀

Or a hangar ✈️ floor to house a 20 metre brain. Curators the world over would die for a quarter of this facility.

It would take a whole day to see it .

A bit of lunch back at the apartment ( city living is Soo convenient) and the boys head off for a swim in the local pool. It’s a pity no photos are available as they had to wear mandatory swimming hats 😆 #stylish .

Top timing ! …. Minutes later Fiona and Paul texts – they’re having a glass on Plaza Mayor – next square along from the Cathedral.

2 minutes later ……

– interim tapas to share until full kitchen after 7.00pm as normal here.

We decide to move Plaza2Plaza and onto the Cathedral version – via Fiona & Meredith’s place to check it out . Nice.

Ending up in Restaurant Bonfin – left of the Cathedral. Still too early for full menu so again “Interim” shared Pizza here.

All are Good – no – great company . Thom and Luke arrive. Hours of convo’ on international living , travel , family , dogs ( many photos 😆) – They’re all lovely people , commonality funneled by the fact we all chose to do this. They take a genuine interest in Thom & Luke , ask after them , offer them international visits , work opportunities, love the fact we travel together and get on so well. ( Years of Practice) .

Night falls – Fiona and Meredith MMM , Paul G , Audrey all have early calls tomorrow and we may not see them after this . We might – but just in case – hugs all round.

Sarah Hill , the polyglot , polymath , Rock & Roll , fellow traveler- stays with us until closing time. Her generous advice and invitation to Vancouver with guaranteed paid casual jobs for Thom & Luke is followed up with full application details some hours later.👏👏👏👏👏 More opportunities, more sliding doors , Top Camino Family .

I’ve absolutely no idea 🤣 why that pose was adopted – just love the photo 👍💕

And this …..

It’s down to the Laws of Camino coincidence if we meet tomorrow- let’s see .

We happily wend the 4 minute way home through the medieval gates …

To a different but no less spectacular night time view from our place …..

It’s quiet and still warm , a good time to retire , we all feel we made the best of our first full day in Burgos.

Xxxxxx

We start at dawn and have a good plan to reach Burgos by Lunchtime . I changed the hotel booking last night which had a 12.00pm same day cancellation clause. We’re excited to see the well located 6 person – 3 separate bedroom apartment booked instead. Miles better , our own spaces and €100 cheaper. Marvelous.

Sunrise pics – good to be here .

A day that starts this way is a privilege. We make our way across limestone altos that reach 550 meters quickly. We talk about who would have walked this way in ages pre- history. The discoveries made beneath our feet were groundbreaking.

As we stayed off trail – we’ve been using GPS to cut across the Atapuerca Massive over good but unmarked tracks over hills to rejoin the Camino. Doesn’t add too many Kilometers and we rejoin after an hour.

Cool views of distant little villages dotted in the folds of the plains with Burgos in the distance. Probably 15k in a line 20k to walk it .

This was one …., silent , neat where’s the people , too early for Siesta 😎

And past the 10th “Michael Jackson” tag we’ve seen on Camino so far. Can’t be a local as it’s been going 275k so far .

You’ve really got to ask – Who goes on Camino and thinks …. “I know , what I’ll do is bring spray paint and tag an ‘80’s pop icon” …… 😏 Some people.

As the sun comes up higher – We stop in a deserted layby on the far edge of Burgos airport . Still 2 hours walk to the Centre where we are though. Luke reapplies factor 50 ….., and as if by magic a party of “certain age” Italian women appear.💥 The noise was incessant, the comments clear in rapid Italian and broken English. Close shave – we all laugh and chat as we , their husband and daughter walk on .

Stereotyping at work .

It’s about there , distracted we miss the longer but greener Camino route alternative and power through an hour of industrial and built up city outskirts. Past a handy bar.

Thom finds a green route anyway that follows the river all the way into the Cathedral…. Lovely long dog walking greenway.

That soon reveals the very heart of Burgos – a beautiful city .

A great route – you’d hardly know the city was around you. We come up to street level and find our apartment easily.

And it’s better than expected we explore 6 or 7 rooms .

And then the VIEW I pull up a chair and just take it all in 😍

We’re here for almost 3 days …. I’m so pleased we changed venue. It’s so what’s needed.

Our baggage transfer went astray – with google Spanish I track it down to a bar . I know it – The Bahia bar behind the Cathedral . I volunteer to go – probable reasons are – 1. Top Dad 2.Nostalgia 3.A quiet beer and Tapas.

Find the bags , get 30 mins to take in the fact I’m back here after 6 years. Order refreshments……

And take a cold Caña and tapas

A quick super market shop , dinner with that view . Our friends catch up tomorrow so we decide to stay in.

After a fab shower in a NON SHARED bathroom we all soon are asleep with that view …….

👏👏👏 and NO ALARM ⏰

Xxxxx

Atapuerca – we would all have heard this name in the early ‘90’s through to early ‘00’s . A place of massive caves where later silt caps kept the secrets of early man in a discoverable state until revealed by modern archaeology.

.

As Thom left the bar yesterday to scout over the Alto he saw the stone circles and radial stone patterns on the Atapuerca massive. Under here are the Secrets in bone , painting and habitation evidence that took the dawn of early man in Europe back from 500,000 to 1.3,000,000 years.

Atapuerca or Olmos ,the smaller village beyond was our destination for the night .

First fuel stop – Tosantos for breakfast about 8.30 am 5k down the trail . Smoothies and Coffee that lead to a Camino Meeting and who knows a fork in the road for Thom in the future?

Everything has a reason and this garden cafe was a little early for a stop – but it meant that we met Marina ( Ukrainian living in France for past 15 years ) .

The roll on Marinas pack is a clue- it’s not a bed roll ( too thin ) it’s a Yoga mat. 30 mins of lively conversation later Thom and Luke have been invited to where she currently lives – a Yoga Ashram in the Bahamas 👏 . She’s serious too and realising young people rarely have that kind of money there is a working option- 6 hours per day – and you live free and practice yoga rest of the time.

A Camino moment and who knows ?!

We move on as we need to be wayyyy ahead to cover the distance. But – flexibility – and being open to new ideas is something we don’t have time for in our normal daily lives – and look what happens when you are – we have so many examples.

And through the last of the flatland

And the start of 12km of fountainless climb . Through broad woodland tracks and logging roads up the Alto de la Pedraja – merciless on a hot day – I actually enjoyed it better last time when it rained.

Past deeply moving moments of remembrance for lonely violent ends for 300 souls.

And on past familiar oasis provided by local entrepreneurs.

A bit different in rainy ☔️☔️ 2017 – but no less 🤗 welcome. It’s a brutal stretch.

And again with the coincidences – in these vast woods after Belorado we get a chance to chat with a true extrovert. Meet Barret – he only works most ski seasons in Bansko , Bulgaria – a ski resort we go to often – bar tending in the Contra Bar or The Hub

We get a standing invite to experience the underground EDM dance show in the basement of Bansko Lab . 10 lev cover 5 lev beer . He’s on – 🎿 this season ⛷️ .

Heads down , hike quiet until we reach civilization. San Juan – promised land of mid-day beer and tortilla – yum 😋

Straight into the Alberque bar . We are soon surrounded by familiar fellows 🍺.

And get my photo taken with Decker who we thought was the guy from the movie “The Hangover” – similar but not quite.

Luke and Charles telling stories. We’re checked in a couple of km past this village. But the owner/barman has kindly offered to drop us off 🙏- as we get on and our lot are spending on beer and pizza .

Thom fancies the walk – as there’s an alternative route through the Atapuerca hillside woods past Stone Age sites – we’ll see some more tomorrow and meet him at the Casa Rural we’ve booked.

We find the tiny village with what is described as a Bio-energetic Green lodging .

It’s nice (ish) but the room for 3 is a squash and a squeeze , Thom makes a bed on the floor and sleeps well – and the only thing green appears to be energy saved by lots of decor made from scavenged wood , no reception, no dinner as the restaurant they depend on is closed Mondays.

We eat toast and Jam , juice , yoghurt they left out for breakfast and in the total silence of this Outback – retire to bed but of course sleep like babies. 😌

Xxxx

Sunday 24th Sept 2023

Where : The trail since 883AD for penitents , supplicants and occasionally the judged minor criminal as punishment.

Destination: leaving Navarre , Rioja and soon across Castille y Leon to Santiago de Compostella

That’s the way all travel blogs should start – informative, time , place , reason.

WWWWH … Who What When Where How

However …….. 😎🤣

We breakfast well –

And head out into the early Sunday

Worth starting early – too hot for us Anglo Saxons after 2.00 pm

And past what 4 weeks earlier would have been a Sunflower sea of yellow- my favourite colour . But now thousands of acres black and left to collect seed. Unsettling, post apocalyptic- reminds me of the Another Place – Gormley statues on Crosby Beach UK

But we find humour in small gestures.

I like a map as much as anyone but this is a good one . I detect a whiff of EU subsidies when I see giant expensive projects in the middle of nowhere and a little but really no great benefit.

We reach Grañon past a well situated pilgrim bar . Up these steps and through the town.

Ancient next to Modern as is normal .

Past deserted but open churches that seem to have been built to provide cool ( or fortification) against the blast outside

And on through a ( recurring theme I know ) Hot afternoon where a brief stop in Castildelgado at the tiny Alberque Bidellupe and bar was most welcome. Lovely couple – tranquillo tiny garden .

We meet up at a memorable Alberque- the Cuatro Cantons in Belorado – our stop for the night .

We book in – top floor under the roof . Very similar to my last visit with Brigs and MorMor 👍😍 although I seem to recall we had a rival band led by the infamous Saga last time 🤣😳

But … and it’s a big bathing BUT …. This place has a pool – you can only imagine how good this feels.

There are loads of villages and Alberques so a welcome coincidence to see Team Taz here too.

They’re on the same floor as us in a bigger dorm. The bathrooms and showers are past them. I predict a riot 🎶

We head for dinner – booked at Cuatro Cantones as its reputation is still as good as last time. In fact those booked into higher grade hotels chose to eat here.

We get a table of 8 with them and when food and inc’ wine arrives – we don’t regret it.

They offer a special choice – chose a spectacular main for the price of the 3 course menu Pelegrino.

Luke gives in to the offer – no starter / no sweet and gets this kilo of ribs – doesn’t regret it .

We head up to our loft – run the gauntlet of tazzie whistles to and from the showers. 😆😆 – Is everyone like this in Tasmania? – good place if so. 👍

A good day

9.58 pm

Click …. 💤 💤 💤

We 3 appear to have developed a symbiotic trail relationship that suits all.

6.00am alarms hardly ever figure in Gen Z lives 😆But still …. We meet all our check out , baggage transfer – and breaky deadlines and launch into a brilliant light .

To keep the troops interested 😎 – I’ve got a varied set of overnight bookings to come across the 4 stages of Spanish hospitality- ( From Alberque to Hostel through Hotel to Parador – this being a hotel in a 4 street , 2 horse town was beyond what was expected. Highly recommended)

Such a clear day – I break out my Sunglasses for the first time. Past an Unexplained column – A little research shows it is. “Rollo” It is a warning that you are now within someone’s jurisdiction, who can pronounce the full force of the law upon you in the area. It is effectively a sword of justice buried in the ground. Beware!

As we pass small groups – conversation usually starts with “Ola or Buen Camino” – they’ll ask “where are you from “ or we will and it continues from there .

In the meantime here’s proof that Texas is not that big a place- and you all DO know each other .
Imagine their reaction when I said – “You’re from Austin ,Texas – I have a Camino Buddy from there Paul Gautier ! “ 😆😆

These are all Pauls work colleagues inc’ the founder Alan Graham on the same 25th anniversary of the founding of their outstandingly effective work with the homeless and working poor in Austin . https://mlf.org/ . What an original way to celebrate 25 years – walk the Camino.

And on past some innovative sculpture.

With Charles (Centre) and Jeff Serra from MLF

Thundering down a hill , running Luke catches up . He’s enjoyed the chase and challenge of leaving an hour or more later and still making up the time.

Hot now as we pass 20k through simple , baked towns like Cirueña you’d never see unless walking .

A few years ago we’d have passed through Ciriñuela too …. But progress ( mmm 🤔) and the Rioja Alta Golf club development change the ancient way and now isolate the village . You CAN still get there if you try and the helpful village barman , serving mainly locals now , will point you back on the trail without retracing your steps .

2 hours onwards to our destination for the night . Santo Domingo de la Calzada . The only town with a Parador on our route.

Every Parador unique , this one was a 12th Century Pilgrims hospital. Hospital in a Camino context is shelter and food rather than injuries

It’s right opposite the cathedral- Centre of everything . Rooms and restaurants are all excellent . Surrounded by antiques and quiet , efficient service. I leave the Fam to raid the top quality room freebies and have a coffee on the shady front terrace. Bliss.

🤣 HOWEVER ! …. We need to get our daily laundry done . Only way to not carry too much is wear one / wash one . Unlike an Alberque you can’t do it yourself in places like this . Shame .

Reception say – leave it outside or fastest way is bring it down and we’ll do it for you and return it in 3 hours – nice. ….. They weren’t expecting a very large bag of Pelegrino trail wear .

There’s a charge says a worried receptionist… let me show you. The laundry list says €5 – reasonable I say , about same as usual for a big load like this.

No No she says – a little desperate- ‘is per item” ….. Strewth! – I’ve a €200 wash here!

I draw you map to the Laundry ? She offers . Too right !

All part of the adventure- it’s a pilgrim hub. I chat with 2 South Korean girls in the Laundry- they shout LAUNDRY BUDDY ! – every day since when we meet on the trail .

Wash in .- I pop into local bar next boor – meet a super bloke , quick 40 degree cycle glass on tinto – and farewell.

Thom and Luke come to pick me up . I’ve booked a table on the main square not only is it THE happening place in town . It’s opposite the laundromat- 🤣 we can get the dryer on FROM the restaurant!

Top planning.

Thom and Luke . Proud of these two – they always make a good impression and the big groups of fellow travelers love them. They’ve been chatting to the mixed Aussie and US group here , who call me over to tell me this.

Lovely people -ask after Ciara – wheres she at ? they ask .

MMM finally confesses her name is Meredith , Sarah loves her Dance music – wants to come to Ibiza , Fiona we know , Audrey – super cool- admits she’s a “Burning Man” festival regular !

Supplies evidence ! Audrey on the right!

Dinner served – kids call me over .

Menu Pelegrino voted best so far €42 Inc drinks for 3 …. Lukes steak was VAST and great quality.

The Tazzie girls are there too . We’ve shared rooms and laughs with them since Orisson on first day . They were up and out by 5.30am this morning so heading for bed soon. Bless them ( and the lure of fame on Caminoramblings.com 😎 ) – they come back on the square just for this photo- love ‘em.

All looking fabulous on great form and rocking their Camino buzz cut hair-do’s xxx

Time to roll back to our short lived little piece of Parador luxury ( with nicely dried washing of course )

Night xxx

The Alberque with the strict curfew has an equally strict check out time. So by 8.00am we are packed , out and down at the only breakfast / dinner game in town – luckily we like it.👍

We head through hundreds of vineyards as the sun rises.

Surprisingly many grapes are still on the vine. Not sure why this late in the year as some vines show autumn colours.

We head on and see Luke in the middle of the trail . Think he’s injured – but noo – he’s sat down with kittens all over him .He loves and attracts animals like few people I know xxx

We all stop to play with them and their mother . Someone produces a tin of fish and they loooove it .

Impossibly cute got cuter as Luke says “don’t move Dad” as one climbs my back and nestles inside my hat 💕😍💕 would have stayed there too .

That’s enough Cat Chat 😎 –

We pass this great beehive structure – grain store maybe with really arty graffiti

Making use of the Rock shapes

And on through Red Rock Canyons

and hot villages sunk into them –

Which still manage to show community pride with sculpture and steps to working water for passers by .

It’s hot as we arrive early at our next overnight . A lift from our usual multi bunk dorms – the hotel disguised behind this facade is special – 2nd level 4 star – The Hotel Casonas de las Amas . A bit early so we dump our packs and head back up the only street in this hamlet of Azofra ( Municipal Alberque would have also been good I hear BTW )

Hot work deserves …….. ( happy grin 👏)

And we are soon joined by Fiona Gray (sitting) Beekeeper and Camino Strider and Mary the Midwife from Melbourne MMM 😁 ( real name disguised until later – she started the way as Heidi ! – just changes it for the hell of it . )

Cheery lunch and they’re staying nearby – very competitive these Aussies – they say they too have a pool at theirs and we agree to a challenge as whos is best.

Check in … very happy

We soon upgrade our rating to 1st level – although it’s NOT advertised as such ( or priced)

Our bathroom gets the “Shower Room of the Camino” award so far . Luke moves into it 🤣

We decide to check out the pool for the challenge… but before we can Fiona and Mary / Heidi surrender sending a WhatsApp photo saying we’ve won already whatever ours look like .

Theirs ! Mmmm Green – nice 🤢

We check out Ours . No comp’ 👏👏👏

We doubly appreciate the place as we’ve not even had real towels for a week !

Night of total silence – Azofra tiny village – middle of hot dry land .

Lovely , peaceful

Xxxx

The resilience of fiesta prone Spain is due in no small part to the early clean up Crews . Thousands of Wine Festival happenings, Multiple stages , folk 🎶 to Rap battles

Here at 6.50am . The city is spotless by 8.00am the day after . Streets are hosed , rubbish collated even as the last revellers are still walking Slooowly home. New romances formed , the odd group still singing faintly. Best time to be on the road.

Selfish maybe – but I value an early start and to see what comes my way. It’s very different as a solo traveler as you’ll see . Boys are in bed and they usually power through and on days when I choose this Salida en Solitario catch up 4/5 hours later.

They run for fun – with backpacks – go figure.

I follow the flechas amarillas ➡️ always comforting to know you’re on the right track.

As I see familar landmarks- love Logronõ – a great weekend destination.

I hesitate at an enormous roundabout- GPS dodgy in narrow streets. See a tall man in a bush hat – looking similarly for directions. On camino this can often be all it needs to spark up a conversation. 30 mins later we have desayuno , Coffee / tortilla and walk most of the day together . – Welcome Stephen Cassidy from the far NW coast of New Zealand here with his wife who is busing 🚌 the day due to mas grandé ampollas 👣 .

Past evidence of just how ancient this path is that we tread . The Middle Age hospital of St Juan de Acre – built a thousand years ago to help pilgrims like me to reach Santiago ( when it REALLY was a difficult path)

Past vineyards with hard to resist photo ops😆 . I have the same from 2017 . That odd humid rain making my mobile marquee style still necessary.

Though the village of Navarette where I recall my first camino family wanted to buy a run down building on this square to open our own Alberque. You still can !

To prove that recycling takes place wayyy before we thought of it …. The entrance stones from St Juan de Acre were reincarnated as the entrance to the towns cemetery! Good job – nice pointing.

Down a large gradient to lunch ! I reach Ventosa a little before Thom & Luke – They missed a lively meeting in the Virgen Blanca bar – Francesco is there! Stephen and I chat – agree it’s been a top mornings hike.

It turns out Stephen who has been all over the world of amazing adventures, including the landlord of the pub near Boulders lock in Maidenhead for 4 years where Ciara and I used to date when we lived down south.!

He came out of his way to join me for lunch and is heading on for another 10k .

Farewell wishes – good company means 5 hours walking went by in a flash.

But … super sadly – Tornado Francesco – is heading for another 15k today and this means we’ll be so out of synch our paths may not cross again ( never say never)

So with final laugh – “Good bye Old Man “ – “Goodbye piccolo bambino” he’s 23 and will go far 👍👍

We have huge hugs and double kiss him goodbye and Buen Camino

He heads out into truly torrential rain – just as a famished Thom & Luke steam into town.

Vast Boccadillos required !

We book into the San Saturnino Alberque in Ventosa – just up the hill . Very nice shared spaces- helpful hospitaleras . Sunny terraces. Washing and drying machines ( VV important 😆👍) – they guide Thom to a sports ground stretching and yoga space – we eat back at the Virgen Blanca ( good menu Pelegríno and sprint back before the VERY strict 10.00pm curfew .

Click ! 💤 💤 💤

Xxxxxxx

We’ll bless my scheduling skills – it sure is.

Sansol to Logronõ via the lovely Viana 💕

Super helpful Dutch Hospitalero at the Palacio helps with pharmacy directions – & partial baggage transfer to lighten the foot impact load and gets us on the way.

Todays hike is sponsored by …… 🤣

And not surprising when the last few days looks like this …. 💥 – Floors !! 605 on Monday 😳 – when did this place get so Hilly 🏔️ ? – it wasn’t last time 😏.

Anyhoo …. To the road and onwards

We cross the bridge into Torres del Rio – nice early morning light .

A town I would stay in next time – it had an Alberque with a pool …..the San Andres – cant tell from the outside – some negative nonsense on Booking.com – but our lot said it was good – you just have to know.

And so to the trail with this complex rock garden – Hundreds of Mini Cairns.

With hippy wishing trees a few Km after

Past well situated informal trail cafes – making a good living from knowing how their Camino customers will feel at that distance.

And UP …. Up again to this vista – I sat here equally trollied in 2017 – super picturesque little ruin .

With a great vista from the lounge 😁

Some preparation involved here to bring back to the town of Viana a gift from 2017 from my dear friend Brigitta Csitkovics . A festival scarf from that years bull run . Got loads of questions on my way .

2017 Viana special invitation

2017 Viana near miss

The scarf returned

With a bottle of Cava 6 years later from the same bar in the same square to celebrate our September Wedding anniversary- 29 years this time ! Cheers Ciara xx

And onto the Festival city of Logronõ . First to the Cathedral with Luke – he loves a good Cathedral as does Thom. Impressed really.

A guarded renaissance masterpiece

Before we head out to the Wine Festival the utter , UTTER madness of Spanish exuberance. Every street in the Barrio asound Calle Laurel like this …. 🍻🍷🍻🍷

With my favorite Spanish Drum Corps / Squadron / Battalion maybe ? 😆 not as big as Santiago’s Corps but rousing and fabulous

A still pic as well in case the videos do not play so well ? – let me know ?

Over view from Ralf’s Balcony- thx for this.

I hope your phone is set to play the videos ok – they’re worth it .

And home after a few Canãs and Pinxos – yum and super cheap .

Past a few lads from the street . All nationalities – Good chat – V friendly- no idea who they are mind .

And the usual night time scenes in this city – don’t think they need a festival

And so to bed in the suitably named Hostal Winderful …. No kidding. V nice too .

Xxxx